Cindy-Lou Dale | Photojournalist

A small corner of Africa

Malawi is a naturalist’s paradise, and boasts as rich a variety of large mammals as most African Countries; including the big five - buffalo, elephant, lion, leopard and rhinoceros. There are over 170 species of mammals and some 649 recorded species of bird.

As with everywhere, human population pressures have meant that most the big game species are now restricted to game reserves and national parks. Although these reserves are not as famous as some found in other East African countries, they offer comparable and excellent game viewing.

To get the most out of a game viewing expedition you will need to take into account the climate. The best times of the year for game viewing is during the dry season August to November. Some parks will be closed or impassable without a four wheel drive vehicle during the raining season, particularly January - March.

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Driving my Land Cruiser from Lilongwe heading towards Monkey Bay, which is at the foot of Lake Malawi, I became aware of passing more people on a more frequent basis the higher I got in the Dedza mountains. Curiosity got the better of me and I stopped at a road-side caravan for lunch and quizzed the Madala (term of respect when addressing a wise old African father). On the menu that day was Mopani worms with Matabele (thick brown porridge) or barbequed mice on sticks with Matabele.

My young son, Ashley, was traveling with me on this occasion. He ordered a plate of Mopani worms and tucked in with relish. Having savored traditional food before he knew the best accompaniment with Mopani worms was peanut butter and politely enquired if the Madala had a jar secreted away somewhere. The Madala considered him sternly for a while and then grudgingly produced a small bottle from beneath the counter.

The Madala told me that in the next village, which was near 20km’s away, there was a tribal witch doctor that had “powers” when throwing the lotaola (bones). The Madala claimed the lotaola spirits spoke with the Sangoma and told him which potion to mix for his patient. His patient would dutifully drink this muti and supposedly be cured of AIDS.

That would explain the purpose in their stride, I thought. I was fascinated at their blind belief and decided to see for myself.

I found the village, off the beaten track at the end of a single lane of soft red sand. There were many reed huts, built close to the Baobab trees, with immaculately swept earth around them. Little picanin’s (toddlers) were darting here and their, chasing chickens, their smiling mother’s looking on, whilst pounding maize.

I knew this was where the Sangoma held court as several large groups of people had gathered to one side of the village pump, patiently waiting to be summoned. The local women were a colorful and noisy explosion of skirts and plastic containers. They shrieked with hilarity at the gossip being told.

I parked my vehicle and ventured out amongst them. They were kind and friendly and the women adored Ashley, who squirmed under their touches, whilst they clucked about his blonde hair.

I came across a village school with its classroom beneath the trees. The teacher smiled when he saw me and gestured that I approach. He spoke fluent English and translated what I said to his pupils. I introduced myself and Ashley and told them why I was in their country. They laughed and clapped hands and seemed overjoyed. The teacher then dismissed the class, telling them to play soccer for a while. Two young boys took Ashley by the hand and led him to their “soccer field”. Several other villagers joined the teacher, who fervently translated all I said. They were all enthusiastic about what they did, what they grew and were very positive about the future for their children. I felt humbled by these people who opened their hearts to me.

When I got back into my 4x4 to continue the journey, Ashley asked if he could give his soccer ball, which was in the trunk, to his new friends. He took his ball and ran over to the pupils who were standing under the trees waiting to wave us a farewell. He told the teacher he wanted his friends to have his soccer ball and remember him by it. In exchange, the class representative gave Ashley their soccer ball, sharing the same sentiment. Beaming from ear to ear, Ashley told me about the ritual trade and then showed me the ball they had given him – it was composed of a large bundle of plastic bags, which were tied up with string.

Back on the tarred road, I passed many plantations of what looked to be Macadamia trees. As it was weekend, farm Lorries were traveling to Blantyre -- it was customary for the local farmer’s to treat their laborers, and their families, to a day out in the town once a month. They were all dressed for the occasion and overflowed the Lorries. Beaming happy people, obviously excited at the day’s prospects, waved excitedly as I passed.

Apart from the friendly people, I noticed Malawi’s little villages had curiously worded signs adorning shops and other premises, some of which I found mildly amusing – a chemist called “Dealers’ Drugstore”, a shoe shop called “Buy One Get One Free”, a haberdashery named “You Sew and Sew”, an out of business furniture store, in the middle of nowhere, aptly named “Suite F.A.”

I boarded an overnight steam ferry, leaving Cape Maclear and bound for Chilumba in the north. Sitting with my feet up against the decks railings, I relaxed with an ice-cold beer whilst Ashley and a newfound friend played on the deck.

At Chilumba I disembarked and drove towards Dar Es Salaam in Tanzania. A long road traveling through some of the most picturesque African villages I had yet seen -- part of the route passed through a private game reserve, where I encountered a group of Masai warriors riding bicycles. Their red robes flowing behind them in their slipstream, their spears clutched in one hand, and with the other ringing their bells in greeting as I passed.

A little further up the road I pulled in at a roadside stall. The Masai cyclist soon caught up and also stopped for a drink. They were awesomely tall and dignified looking men in brilliantly bright robes, elaborate hair plaited and dyed red, huge holes in their earlobes, splendid jewelery and glistening spears. In pigen English they asked how I got my hair to be straight and enquired as to what mud I put on Ashley’s hair to make it so “white”.

Approaching Dar Es Salaam’s city outskirts I passed hundreds of cyclists. I paused at a busy cross road and was fascinated to see a cyclist in a giant bird costume passing in front of me. Ashley was beside himself with excitement yet there was no reaction from the local Africans to a huge bird cycling through their town.

On arrival at my hotel I decided to immediately freshen up as my disheveled appearance had led to me being occasionally greeted as “Master”. So I had a shower and put on a dress, hoping this would prevent any further confusion.

Overlooking the Indian Ocean, Ashley and I watched a spectacular sunset from our hotel balcony. Lost in thought I contemplated the journey ahead and reflected on the people we had met earlier.

Later, whilst tucking Ashley into bed, he asked when we would return to Malawi. “I want to go back there mummy.”

I gently smoothed his hair and whispered, “I do too, my boy. One day, one day soon” and tucked his plastic bag and string soccer ball in next to him. A promise I endeavor to keep.

Malawi Hotels: http://www.tripadvisor.com

Flight to Malawi: http://www.opodo.co.uk

5 Most Popular Attractions

Nyika National Park - The rolling hills of the Nyika Plateau, averaging about 2000m (6560ft) above sea level, are covered with a mix of mopane grassland and mimbo woodland. Other areas are covered in dense evergreen forests, and there are pockets of damp grassy bog. The park is famous for its wildflowers (120 species of orchid), which grow like mad after the rains (November to April), and attract a broad array of wildlife. Most common are the large roan antelope and the smaller reedbuck; you'll also see zebra, warthog, blue monkey and over 250 species of bird.

Mwabvi Game Reserve - In the southernmost tip of Malawi, Mwabvi is the country's smallest (under 350 sq km/135 sq mi) and least-visited reserve. It's virtually a wilderness, with a hilly landscape of sandstone ridges, rocky gorges, fast-flowing streams and mopane woodland. The Reserve has unmatched scenery and spectacular views over the Shire and Zambezi Rivers. Sadly, the place has been neglected and has little large wildlife due to poaching. You will need a car and plenty of will power to get there. The gate is on the main road between Chikwawa and Nsanje.

Lake Malawi Marine Park - Lake Malawi National Park was only designated a National Park in 1980 was established at the southern end of the Lake to protect the unique diversity of tropical fish living there, some not found anywhere else on earth. The National Park is the most important freshwater fish sanctuary in Africa and it was the first park in the world to give protection to the marine life of a tropical deep water, Rift Valley Lake. The Nankhumba Peninsula, forms the centerpiece of a miniature archipelago of twelve islands, and encompasses Cape Maclear, where scuba diving and snorkeling are popular activities. The underwater game viewing experience matches anything that the land has to offer. The natural habitats has resulted in an extraordinary concentration of different species of plants, animals and birds, quite asides from the hundreds of species of fish that can be found in the region, the most famous of which is the Mbuna Chichlids.

Liwonde National Park – It lies on the banks of the Upper Shire River, south of Lake Malawi, bordering Lake Malombe to the north and encompassing a large area east of the river. It is situated 120km north of Blantyre, and about 60km north of Zomba and is 236 kms away from Lilongwe. The vegetation is diverse ranging from the swamps, lagoons and reed-beds along the river edge, grassland in the better drained areas where palm, sausage and baobab trees grow, whilst elsewhere there is Mopane woodland, and some dense woodland. Liwonde boasts having one of Malawi's largest elephant population, which can often be seen bathing on the rivers edge along with the Hippos. Large concentrations of sable antelope, as well as kudu, duiker and oribi can be found in the Mopane bush. The plains are home to waterbuck, reedbuck, other antelope as well as lion. Birds are abundant, including the more common species such as fish eagle, jacana, white bellied cormorant and the rarer Lilian's lovebird. The best time to visit this park is in the dry season, during the rains the park is often closed and if it is open you will need a 4x4 and even then many roads could be impassable. The park can be reached by boat from Liwonde barrage throughout the year.

Nkhotakota Game Reserve – It’s situated 115km to the North East of Lilongwe, on top of the Rift Valley escarpment above the lake. It is the oldest established reserve in Malawi. The Bua River cuts through the middle on route to the lake. and provides a excellent spot for a bit of fishing for mpasa and Lake Salmon (permits are required). There are no open plains but elephant, buffalo, lion, leopard and hyena can all be found in this area. Bird watching is especially rewarding with more than 300 species being recorded, including Pel's Fishing Owl and Palmnut Vulture.

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