AFRICA
Secret East Africa: A beach-boy, somewhat wild of hair, approached me, enquiring if I needed some company. His eyes burnt red from the ganja he smoked. I politely declined then watched him join a group of his friends nearby. They all slumped to their haunches, their hands out-stretched to the fire, resting elbows on knees. They spoke in low intense voices to one other in Swahili; their words sounded like water over rocks, bubbling, soft, incessant. A fragrant pillow of blue marijuana smoke hung about their heads. Their words rose and fell like wind coming from afar, and soon they began to sing in low full throated voices raised in harmony. Further...
Morocco - A magic carpet ride: With a certain flourish of satisfaction Muktar clapped his hands sharply, startling a servant who’d been nodding off into a broken chicken-neck sleep in the corner. The table was cleared promptly and an eagle-eyed stick of a man appeared with my bundled carpet over his shoulder. Muktar issued an instruction which sent the servant trotting off to my hotel with the package. I turned to Muktar with an extended hand, “Al-salaamu alaykum. And thank you for your hospitality and friendship; till we meet again.” He took my hand, leaning forward slightly. “Inshallah.” God willing. Further...
South Africa - Garden Route: Beyond Plettenburg Bay you’ll journey through endless fields of golden wheat swaying in the lazy breeze. Here you’ll find immense Overberg farms that extend from the road verges to beyond the horizon, with only lines of trees marking their boundaries. You’ll also happen across the occasional shaggy thatched village where geese and chickens loiter along the roadside and children rush out to wave at passing cars. Further...
South Africa - Hogsback: Then, as if in slow motion, you pass through a twilight zone of canopied trees, beyond which is a world that saturates your senses with every sharp shade, sound and smell nature can bestow. A soft silken breeze carries with it the tangy aroma of wild ginger and the distant chatter of Samango monkeys. An overwhelming sense of calm befalls you when you take you first deep breath of the fresh mountain air, which is so clean and clear you feel as if you could reach out and ping it as you would a crystal wineglass. Further...
Malawi - Let there be music: This is an international event like no other, where music crosses boundaries and borders, where people leave their inhibitions and misgivings at home, where the Minister of Tourism, after officially opening the event, succumbs to the irresistible beat and bogeys on the dance floor, to huge applause and wolf-whistles from an appreciative audience. Further...
Malawi, beyond the begging bowl: William Mariwanda and I sat under a giant fig tree in Chembe village looking out across the waters of Lake Malawi. I enquired after his future prospects had private enterprise not come to his village. His oyster eyes held my gaze as he considered my question. Further...
Africa travel info: A few adrenalin junkies may like the idea of doing a spot of shark cage diving, the best of which can be found in Kleinbaai, the harbor of Gansbaai, a coastal town on the famed Garden Route. Reserve a space with UnrealDive (US$140) – I liked the idea of UnrealDive as they take out smaller groups and use a ‘re-breather’ so there are no bubbles under water. Further...
Senegal - Dakar, after dark: Dakar's nightlife is wild, with every bar packed before midnight. In reality though, it’s only the band on stage that differentiates one club from another, with entry-charges ranging from $8 to $15 – some including drinks. To experience Dakar’s hippest crowd, be certain to dress for the occasion. Dance-floor chic is ruled by the Americanised urban-look, with designer jeans, cropped T-shirts and the latest hip-hop groove gear. Further...
St Helena, a paradise found: You may feel that you are being watched from beyond the dark recesses and huddled doorways; but it’s the sudden pockets of quiet which will cause you to quicken your step just a little. Once you’ve past through the 18th century Town Gates listen carefully - the creaking sound of the ghost-like galleons, Captained by the likes of James Cook and William Dampier, is barely audible. Further...
DR Congo, Destination Guide: Though DR Congo is slowly recovering after civil war, outside of Kinshasa, travel is hazardous and difficult and many regions are highly insecure, particularly in the east and north of the country. According to the UN more than 5-million people have died either through diseases, malnutrition or amidst clashes between government troops, armed militia and tribal groups. Further...
Kenya, Beware the matatus: Nairobi’s traffic was insane - thousands of people milling about, goats herded across busy roads, yapping dogs wandering the streets, chickens darting here and there and the world’s most aggressive, selfish drivers who clearly considered being overtaken by another vehicle as a personal humiliation and would not stop to let other vehicle pass as this undoubtedly would constitute lack of resolve. Further…
Mozambique, in the nude: We made the most of it and decided to rather eat tinned spaghetti with meatballs and stale bread rolls as opposed to what looked to be distinctly dog-like at the local eatery. Further…
Malawi: A small corner of Africa: He ordered a plate of Mopani worms and tucked in with relish. Having savoured traditional food before he knew the best accompaniment with Mopani worms was peanut butter and politely enquired if the Madala had a jar secreted away somewhere. The Madala considered him sternly for a while and then grudgingly produced a small bottle from beneath the counter. Further…
Namibia: Extreme Vacation: A moment later the pilot shrieked and announced that he had found the runway. He tilted the plane so steeply that I sometimes still sit upright in bed at 3am thinking about it. I was again comfortably certainty that I was going to die and then, I saw the runway. The plane landed hard and felt as if it was broad-siding. Further…
Namibia, Noah's desert ark: The vivid image of Marlice relaxing in a chair, sipping a brandy with a monkey on her shoulder and a cheetah at her feet, will remain with me forever. She stared into the crimson sunset and quietly nodded in agreement to a private though. Further…
South Africa, a moment to remember: Against the backdrop of the hulking Langeberg Mountains and a crimson sunset, I continued our journey and drove through endless oceans of golden wheat fields, swaying in the lazy breeze. Immense farms extended from the road verges to beyond the horizon, with only border tree lines to mark their edges. Here and there was a scattering of farm houses and outbuildings. Further…
South Africa, between the bars: In the deep blue pond of Cape Town's Table Bay Harbour lies the most abiding symbol of colonial tyranny, the infamous icon of segregation, the Alcatraz-style Maximum Security Prison of Robben Island. Cold reality set in whilst thrashing through the choppy swells on the 40-minute ferry journey, watching the mainland shrink away. One can only but imagine the realisations of former prisoners that there would be no escape from the foreboding loneliness that awaited them. Further...
DR Congo: The armed rangers, who guide you through Virunga, are there to safeguard the gorillas and are dedicated conservationists who understand the forest and the apes better than most. They prize their jobs as guardians of a rare world heritage and regularly risk their lives to protect them. Further...
Angola, Land of endless war: As I neared I saw two men dressed in faded fatigues, one beating a woman with the butt of his AK whilst the other restrained her, laughing at her pathetic attempts to shield the blows directed at her head. She was screaming and shouting in a language I could not understand. The head Police vehicle hooted in recognition of their comrades who, in turn, cheered at the passing convoy. Further…
Mozambique, an African farm: When I rose the following morning Moses was waiting for me in the kitchen. He was ready to show me the boundaries of the farm and the areas that needed to be mine-swept. Knowing the perils that lay ahead we took the sensible precaution of anesthetizing ourselves with several glasses of red wine before departing. Further…
South Africa, where the spirits of the Zulu Kings roam: Driving through the Valley of the Zulu Kings, I felt certain, when listening carefully, that I could hear the wind sigh and whisper the secrets and sorrows of great battles, made visible by lone forts and small graveyards on ghostly undulating landscapes. Further…
DR Congo's guerrillas in the mist: I had been warned not to approach the gorillas but instead wait and see if they come to me, which a few of the younger ones did when they brushed by me. One put her hand on my forearm, lifting it to inspect a scar on my hand. While I received a hand examination, an unfamiliar male gorilla appeared in the group. We witnessed a frightening territorial display when the resident male became excited. Further...
AMERICAS
Ohio's secret society: “The first Somali refugees arrived in Columbus in early 2000; they were assigned to an area called Capital Park – commonly referred to as the ganglands as it was overflowing with gun wielding hoods and drug dealers. You know, the kind of place even the emergency service try to avoid. Coupled with other offshoots of crime, like prostitution, it was definitely not a place you’d even want to drive through,” he stoically claimed. Further...
NYC, soul in the city: At the Hip-Hop church rap artist, Rev Kurtis Blow, requested that as a sign of respect to the Lord, no hats or do-rags were to be worn. There was a shuffle as do-rags dropped and everyone praised Jesus. An infectious beat started heads bobbing, the Rev paced in front of his flock, rapping about the Lord changing people’s lives. A wailing sinner fell trembling to his knees, testifying his sins. When the hallelujah-ing and praising of the Lord was done, the convert would cry out confessing still more sins. It seemed the sinner was having a good time telling of his bad deeds. Praise the lord, praise his precious name. Further...
ASIA & THE FAR EAST
Fom Russia with love: It’s versatile and sexy, and after a moment of startled delight your eyes will roll to the back of your head, then you’ll begin to emit involuntary rapturous noises of sufficient intensity to draw envious stares from across the room. In a micro-instant you’ll know you’ve just tasted pure Russian Vodka. Further...
Land of the rising sun: Japan is shrouded in mystique and ancient history, and the perfect way to unravel this enigma is by exploring its landscape gardens. Their basic design is based on capturing the grace and beauty of nature and bringing it into our daily lives. Further...
Niigata: Niigata Prefecture is the entrance point to her neighbouring countries on the Japan Sea and in return, Russia, China, North- and South Korea, all use Niigata Prefecture as the front door into Japan. Further...
MAINLAND EUROPE
Germany's castles: The weather changed in an instant and soon I found myself caught in a torrential downpour. I sought shelter deeper in the woods, which now looked very different under unkind skies, unnerving even. I felt certain that the air was thicker in there, more stifling, the noise different - the kind of place one could go into and not come out of again. My nerves were on edge and I berated myself for not leaving word of where I was going. I should at least have told the front desk - if I was mugged or worse... I considered the possibilities of how one could meet one’s end in the woods then wondered after Interpol’s statistics for tourist killings in Germany. Further...
Belgium - Brussels City Guide: The Saint-Jacques district could be best described as hip, gay, incredible, adorable, generous, lively and spontaneous. The comic strip walls fill the district with colour, and the collectors and second-hand clothes dealers all get on well together, openly taunting one another for fun. There is a little of everything here - high fashion to vintage, artistic to sophisticated gadgets to second-hand books, comic strips to music, all happily coexisting. Further...
A German Gem: Festivals are an important part of the Moselle experience and as one would expect, most festivals focus on the regions produce and sees wine growers opening their wine cellars inviting visitors to enjoy their tangy Rieslings and delicious food. On Saturday’s some wine growers offer guided walks through their hillside vineyards followed by a wine-tasting, which is a great way to find your favourite local label. Further....
London, Europe's Christmas Shopping Mecca: Londoners love to celebrate the capital's time-honoured Victorian traditions come Christmas, like taking to the ice at Somerset House. Many a cheerful soul will be spotted gliding around on skates, shrieking hysterically, wrapped up against the chill in their best winter woollies. Further...
Rock Art of France: Since the beginning of time Khoisan-speaking San Bushmen were the only dwellers of southern Africa. They gathered wild plants and hunted, painting figures and shapes on cave walls. These artistic depictions were not aimed to decorate their rock shelters, nor were they designed to portray everyday life; in fact they’re a visual aid of the ethereal spirit world entered by shamans as they commence the hunt. Further...
Monaco: Standing on the balcony overlooking the beautiful harbour setting I became acutely aware that the Monaco Grand Prix is so much more than a motor race. Monaco is celebrity Mecca, more so over the Grand Prix weekend when you get to rub shoulders with some of the biggest names in the world of sport and film and fashion. Further...
A Tuscany Island: It would be difficult to find another stretch of land in Europe which can boast with such a remarkable culture and which still continues to honour traditions of the past. Like that of the wine producers, the guardians of traditional winemaking, whose expert hands have worked the sun’s energy and the fertile soil for centuries preserving the ancient wines that were in favour in Roman times. Further...
Munich, the best party in the world: If you walk through the quiet parts of the city, you will be forgiven in thinking you’ve stepped into a rehearsal as you’ll come across local classical musicians playing pieces by Bach, Mozart and Beethoven. You see Münich loves music and it’s everywhere. Further...
Berlin, via a Trabant Safari: A smoky bang from the exhaust thrust us forward ten feet, paused and then with the aid of a fresh explosion took off with a velocity seldom seen outside a Road Runner cartoon. Shrieking hysterically we flew down Oraniestrasse like an Exocet Missile, creating scenes reminiscent of the streets of Pamploma when the bulls are running. Motorists and pedestrians alike fled in terror before me as I inadvertently chased a flock of purple-rinsed tourists off a zebra crossing. Further...
Holland, lets get romantic: No sooner have social arrangements for Christmas and the New Year been negotiated, than little hearts and cupids sparkle from store windows and the commercial machine of Valentine’s Day is upon us once more. By this stage a touch of romance and a dreamy night away might be just what you need. Finding an authentic Valentine’s treat on a continent not too taken with a day observing the rituals of love is not that easy though. Further...
Holland, it’s blooming marvellous: One moment the path guides you beneath scrolling green tendrils displaying a flurry of golden stars on slender stalks, then it moves you through serenely quiet pockets of cheer perfection and beyond on to a vivid landscape of incomparable splendour and spread with colour in a hundred layered shades – glowing pinks, deep purples, banners of pure crimson. Further…
Traben-Trarbach, Germany: Traben-Trarbach is in the heart of Riesling country with vineyards clinging to every centimeter of hillside. The steep vine-clad slopes and mineral rich, slight citrusy soil, holds the heat of the day, ensuring full ripeness of the grapes. Most wines of the Mosel valley are delicate yet complex, abundant in bouquet, pale gold in colour and light bodied, with a vivacious, fruity acidity and distinctive tastes ranging from subtle to earthy with a suggestion of effervescence. Further…
Germany, Frankfurt - City of contrast: Order your aromatic apple drink like the locals do and drink it pure. In the winter months apple wine takes on a different dimension and is served hot, infused with sugar, cinnamon, cloves and lemon. Further...
Germany, Frankfurt - International Book Fair: The first trade fairs are known to have taken place as early as the 11th century. Now Frankfurt is one of the worlds’ most significant trade fair locations. Kaiser Friedrich II declared it to be the first trade fair city by way of imperial privilege in 1240. Further...
Bosnia Herzegovina - Mostar: Tongues of dawn-flame kissed the chilli-red roofs and the bombed out hollow structures. Walls peppered with bullet holes left one with a feeling that somehow God would reach out and heal the wounds caused by mans wrong-doings.. Mostar was a city both irretrievably scarred and infinitely capable of renewing itself. Further...
Eger wine region, Hungary: Being one of life’s great cheapskates, I decided against hiring a car and took a two-hour €6 bus ride out of Budapest to Eger, the historic wine region of Hungary. This was a decision I would later regret. A formidable Neanderthal lumbered onto the already full bus. He could easily have been the world’s most terrifying human. He lunged passed, grunted then looked back at the empty seat beside me. I felt a stab of despair when he returned and oozed himself into it. Further...
Budapest - City of Baths: Once pleasantly parboiled, progress to the massage mat where a same-sex masseuses (all of whom have that Sumo wrestler look about them) will give you a no frills, all business massage, like you’ve never had before, and where you will discover new muscle groups. For what seems like a small eternity, but in reality is only 15-minutes, your body will be vigorously pressed and kneaded with soap lather. Further...
Great Whites of Bosnia Herzegovina: I awoke to sharp jolt and a rafter’s paddle beating my forearm, instead of the water. We were in white waters rivalling none that I had yet seen. The raft tilted dangerously and for some inexplicable reason, whilst grasping at an evasive sky-hook and falling into a slow backward summersault, I recalled a bottle of wine I had forgotten in my deepfreeze back home. It took a moment before the coldness registered but when it did I paddled furiously for the surface, which was fast receding. Despite my vigorous attempts I continued to sink. Water had filled my wet-suit, and the arms, which I had earlier tied around my waist, now embraced my knees. Further...
Cave Diving in Bosnia: Cave divers are like rock-face climbers; their purpose is the same, only in the opposite direction, with one difference. Cave-diving is about as extreme as it gets. It's less about discovering what there is but more about determining what there isn’t. In a cave you are surrounded by velvet darkness and an unnatural silence, leaving you with a distinct impression that the fish can hear your heartbeat. Further...
Hitler's Chip Shop: What sticks in the throat here is the price of the visit and the lack of informationas to what the visitor may expect. Granted, I visited on a foggy day and could not enjoy the stupendous views over the German/Austrian border and particularly Salzburg. However, this is not the first mountain I have ever stood atop of, nor the highest, but certainly the most expensive. Further...
Belgium, Life in the Bronx: I passed an elderly gentleman stooped over a freshly dug mound of earth, poking at it with his walking stick. Numerous clucking hens were at his feet, scratching at the soil, ferreting for worms and grubs. One let out of whooping squawk and attacked something only she could see in the dirt, which caused the other hens to rush across in excited anticipation. Further…
The French throne: My teenage son thought he could save a few coins by ducking into the john someone exited. No doubt he had forgotten my warnings of earlier and was promptly sanitised -- the toilet received no payment so thought it was empty and retracted the toilet bowl into the wall just as he sat down, then doused him and the entire cubicle with sterilizer. Further…
Italy, a solo getaway: I eventually succumbed to that most touristy of all Venetian events: coffee at the Florian café in St Mark’s. Was it worth the €11.50 for a cup of coffee and a single crummy biscuit? Well, I guess you just can’t say you’ve been to Venice until you’ve had coffee at Florian’s. Further…
Belgium, Europe's best kept travel secret: Having previously been ruled by Spain, the Netherlands and France, Belgium is one of those countries that finds it easier to describe itself by what it is not: It’s not French, nor is it Dutch, neither German. Further...
A Brit abroad: When the January sales arrived, my two teenagers and I were ready to do our share for Belgium’s economy, having carefully planned our onslaught on Leuven’s stores, which we had scouted the day before. Armed with an assortment of credit cards and ready to black belt our way through the fabulous boutiques, we entered one of the trendiest teenage fashion stores on the mall. I gravitated towards the sales rails and the kids towards the new arrivals. Further...
UNITED KINGDOM
London, the briefcase capital of Europe: Credited with designing the original tuxedo, Henry Poole & Co was the first Savile Row tailor, and is still in business at No 15. Other big names include the original tailor to the Royal Navy, Gieves & Hawkes whose former clients include Lord Nelson and the Duke of Wellington; Beale & Inman was Charles Dickens tailor, with more modern-day clients who include Kofi Annan, Pierce Brosnan and the notorious Mob boss, John Gotti. Further...
Notting Hill Carnival: It's the biggest festival in Europe and in carnival terms is second only to Rio. It’s fantastic, it’s vibrant, energetic, it’s for everyone – and it’s free. At the Notting Hill Carnival every spectator is a participant. Further...
Walk the Wight: With 180 themed walks for young and old held over 16 days, the Isle of Wight Walking Festival is the biggest event of its kind in the UK. Walks range from the historical to the hysterical. Further...
Isle of Man: Folklore claims a warring Irish giant threw a fistful of earth at his Scottish rival, but it fell short and landed in the Irish Sea. The ancient sea god later named this mound of earth the Isle of Man. With historic Viking monuments and Celtic crosses predating Christ, this 221 square mile island is steeped in history and legend. Further...
England, the Don Juan of Nottingham: Byron, who outraged England with his outrageous exploits, was in fact a psychopath, according to a leading psychiatrist. Byron was renowned across Europe for his over-the-top life style as well as his witty poems. He was infamous for his immoral ways, driven by drugs and alcohol, which ran onto allegations that he had carnal knowledge of several hundred of females - and liabilities running deep in the red. Further...
England, a Land of Poets: Traveling towards Exeter in Devon, I happened upon one of the oldest and most historic market towns in England -- Ottery St. Mary, sheltered by swollen hills and surrounded by hamlets whose names reflect similar ancestry. One of the locals confided that Ottery St. Mary had a history dating back beyond the Doomsday Book. “William of Orange dined at Ottery St. Mary in 1688, on his way to the palace to claim the crown from James 1,” he said. As if to affirm this statement bells began to toll from the 14th century Church of St. Mary, which crowned the hill over the town. Further...
England, Jane Austen Country: You will come away from England with fond memories of the people and their peculiarities, their commitment to order; the moth-eaten antiquity, their eccentric customs like becoming overjoyed at the most humble of pleasures. Their spirit in the way they ‘put up with things, like the weather, the royal family or bad service. The way they apologize for their mere presence and the manner in which they discourage their children from grumbling, saying instead it may be one of those proverbial crosses in life they’ll need to bear. Further…
The London Underground: Passenger careering between tube stations knows there is a London beneath London. A detailed map of the tunnels and capital’s subterranean innards have never been illustrated, so numerous documents need to be studied before any development can take place as some of these underground aspects date back centuries. Further...
GENERAL
Aviation Guerrillas, without frills: They might not be more than flying buses, cutting corners with no assigned seating, in-flight entertainment, or even free food — but transatlantic low cost airlines have now made the European accessible. Further...
The new breed of air travel: You’re being fleeced by Goliath’s of the airline trade; be smart and check out the low-cost options being offered by the David’s out there. Further...
House-swapping: When all a vacation will cost you is the air fare and elbow grease in getting your home tidied up and your junk cleared out, the advantages of house-swapping are evident. Further...
Talk is cheap: America has embraced the convenience of using cellular phones, but attempting to make a call whilst abroad often brings nasty surprises. Even if your handset works, voice mail may not and coverage can be erratic. Make the wrong contract choice and you could end up with a huge bill. Further...
