Cindy-Lou Dale

 had travelling from London, with my two small children, to Cape Town and from there, hired a car at the airport and headed along the infamous Garden Route towards my parent’s farm in the eastern Cape. We had not seen each other in two years, so there was great excitement all around.

 

Ashley and Penny-Lane were agog as I told them of Hogsback, our destination. I explained firstly that Granny and Grandpa’s farm was in a mountain much higher than Table Mountain and that in winter it snowed, bringing scores of tourist from all over the country to ski on the slopes. But now, in summer, it was lush and green, like a tropical rainforest. I described the dinner-plate sized mushrooms to be found on the hills. Ashley convinced his younger sister that fairies sheltered under the mushrooms from the rain.

 

“Why is it called ‘Hogsback’, mummy?” asked seven-year old Ashley.

I explained that in Xhosa the word meant ‘red clay on the face’ and that the red clay is used during initiation rites by the local tribes.

 

“Granny can see the three ridges of Hogsback from her front veranda”, I continued. “She says they look like the bristles on a hog’s back.”

 

Ashley asked if there were indeed hogs in the mountains and I confirmed that there were far too many that evaded the cooking pots of the local people. Satisfied with this explanation, he proceeded to tell Penny-Lane about what they would do with the dogs and Grandma’s other animals. He even threatened to teach Penny-Lane to swim in Granny’s pool.

 

I passed a treats bag, filled with nuts and dried fruit, to the back seat as I drove on in search of a nice restorative cup of tea and a banana sandwich. Eventually, a road sign indicated a roadside service centre was some ten kilometres ahead. 

 

At the services we decided to forego the customary banana sandwiches and instead bought several large pieces of ‘biltong’ and Rooibos tea in Styrofoam cups. Biltong is a great South African delicacy which constitutes tough strips of dried raw game meat that looks even worse than it sounds. But we love the stuff. In fact Penny-Lane cut her teeth on biltong.

 

Ashley, Penny-Lane and I were sitting on the sidewalk next to my car, doing battle with our respective pieces of biltong when a busload of camera wielding blue-rinsed European old folk drove by. I wondered if they were gaping horror-struck at the sight of the kids and me, sprawled comfortably in the gutter or where they were staring at the repulsive looking things we was gleefully tearing at? Needless to say, we were undeterred.

 

Against the backdrop of the hulking Langeberg Mountains and a crimson sunset, I continued our journey and drove through endless oceans of golden wheat fields, swaying in the lazy breeze. Immense farms extended from the road verges to beyond the horizon, with only border tree lines to mark their edges. Here and there was a scattering of farm houses and outbuildings.

Several hours later I took the turnoff directing me to Hogsback. The 12km drive to the base of the mountain that eventually lead to Hogsback itself was dangerous due to randomly crossing cattle, goats and farmyard fowls. The tarred road gave way to gravel tracks that had been washed away in places - the vegetation dense.

 

I drove slowly and rounded a corner to find the road ahead blocked by several cattle. I pulled over and waited for the herdsman to direct his cattle, waking the children for the unusual sight. On our right was the moon kissed slopes of the great Amatola Range, overlooking the rivers and beautiful farm lands of the Tyume Valley.

 

“Enkosi, mamma,” said the herdsman in thanks as he passed. The children smiled and waved and Ashley stuck his arm out to stroke a passing cow.

 

There was much chatter and excitement as we turned into ‘Somerset Farm’. The veranda security lights came on as I drew up outside my parent’s rambling farmhome. Ashley hurriedly got out of the car and ran up the steps to meet his Grandpa who was already halfway down. Granny soon appeared heading directly for Penny-Lane, who was still strapped into her seat. “Oh, my little girl, your Ouma missed you so!”

 

All the farm labourers and their families came out to greet us and soon Ashley and Penny-Lane were whisked away by the picanins (young children) whom had made a ‘tent’ in the dining room with upturned chairs and numerous blankets. There was much laughter and shrieks of terror as they exchanged ghost stories and told stories of the witch that lived with the hogs.

 

Later that night, much later, after the children were put to bed, surrounded by my mum’s dogs, my parents and I sat in the kitchen – where all social gatherings took place. My father stoked the log fire while my mother directed him.

 

“Keep your bedroom door closed tonight otherwise Ugly will join you. She sleeps there you know,” mum warned. Ugly was the ‘house’ chicken that my mum had adopted when still a chick. Conversation focused on farm life, animals, new staff and crops. Mum told of her ailing horse that was in recovery and who cleverly used her poor condition to illicit sympathy and sugar lumps from dad.

 

“He’s a sucker for her doe eyes, he is”, mum berated.

 

“Rachel, don’t make as if you’re so Holy, I saw you the other day with her too. Giving her ice cream,” dad responded. This was my family. Wine farmers that don’t drink wine and a farm yard full of animals that would die of old age before being eaten.

Eventually my dad’s secret reserve of lethal home brewed apricot brandy made an appearance, together with our respective tobacco pipes. It was that precise moment that would be stamped in my memory forever. In that instant I realised what a precious gift I had in my rather eccentric parents and how I loved this very Africa.

 

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Accommodation:      

The Bay Hotel, Camps Bay, +27 21 438 1800 

St. James Hotel, Kynsna, ph +27 44 3826750

Kings Lodge Hotel, Hogsback, ph +27 45 9621024

Somerset Gardens Restaurant, Main Road, Hogsback, ph +27 45 9621307

 

Flights to Cape Town:

British Airways flies into several South African cities;

KLM flies into several South African cities;

Lufthansa flies into Cape Town and Johannesburg;

South African Airways - they do the lot, as you would expect;

QANTAS flies into Johannesburg from Australia; and

Virgin flies into Cape Town and Johannesburg.

                            

Car Hire at Airport

Currency converter

 

South Africa tourist information:

 

Capital: Pretoria

Size: 1,219,080 km squared

Population: 42,130,500

Population density: 33.8 people per km

 

Climate: As the country lies in the southern hemisphere, the seasons in South Africa are the reverse of those in the northern hemisphere. December and January are the main summer holiday months, and people flock to the beaches in droves. In May and June, autumn brings warm days and cool nights. The climate is at its best at this time in most parts of the country. Autumn and spring are the best seasons for hiking. From the beginning of July to the end of September, you can expect cold conditions in most of the country, and rain in the Western Cape. Snow sometimes falls on the Natal Drakensberg and the Cape mountains in winter.

 

Communication Services: A direct dialling service connects all centres' except for villages in the more rural districts. The international telephone service links South Africa with countries around the world. Cellular phones can be hired on a daily, weekly or monthly basis.

 

Credit Cards: Major international credit cards such as American Express, Diners Club, Mastercard, Visa and their affiliates are accepted in South Africa

 

Currency: The currency unit is the Rand, denoted by the symbol R1. R1 = 100 cents. Foreign currency can be exchanged at commercial banks, American Express and Rennies Travel. Notes issued R200, R100, R50, R20, R10; coins R5, R2, R1, 50c 20c, 10c and 5c. Currency exchange rates are available at banks and published daily in the press.

 

Electricity: 220/230 volts AC at 50 cycles per second. Three pronged plugs are universal, so take an adapter. Most hotel rooms have 110-volt outlets for electric shavers and small appliances.

 

Sun Protection: The South African sun is strong with a high ultraviolet rating, so screening products with sun protection factors of 15 and over are recommended.

 

Safety: Politically stable at last, but experiencing high levels of crime, especially in cities. Johannesburg infamous for carjackings and muggings, Cape Town quieter. Rape a serious problem nationwide.

 

Visas: Passport holders from more than 80 countries, including the USA, Canada, Japan and the European Union countries can visit South Africa without visas. For further information contact your local office of the diplomatic or consular representative of the South African Government. If you intend travelling to South Africa's neighbouring countries and back into South Africa you are advised to apply for multiple entry visas. Tourists must satisfy immigration officers that they have the means to support themselves during their stay, and that they are in possession of return or onward air tickets.

 

Water: In the major cities and towns and most game reserves, tap water is purified and 100% safe to drink.

 

Time Differences: Throughout the year, Standard Time in South Africa is two hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, one hour ahead of Central European Winter Time, and seven hours in advance of Eastern Standard Winter Time.

 

Immunisation: People arriving in South Africa from a Yellow Fever Zone, must have a valid international yellow fever inoculation certificate. Infants under the age of one year are exempt. Immunisation against cholera and smallpox is not required.

 

Languages: South Africa currently has 11 official languages (Afrikaans, English, Ndebele, Pedi, Sotho, Swati, Tsonga, Tswana, Venda, Xhosa, Zulu). English is spoken throughout the country. French, Italian and German are spoken by staff members in many of the larger hotels and shops that cater to the tourist markets.

 

Medical Services: South Africa has no national health scheme. It's advisable to purchase travel insurance which covers medical expenses during the period of your stay.

 

Shopping: South African manufacturers set a high premium on workmanship, and at the current Rand value, you can afford to be really extravagant. Shopping hours are generally 08:00 to 17:00 on weekdays, and 08:00 to 13:00 on Saturdays. Many shops in cities are open Sundays as well as in the big shopping malls.

 

Rules of the Road: An excellent road network links the largest metropolitan areas with the smallest villages. South Africa drives on the left. The speed limit in urban areas is usually 60 km per hour and on freeways 120 km per hour unless otherwise indicated. Wearing seat belts is compulsory; driving under the influence of alcohol is a serious offence and traffic laws are strictly enforced. Obtain an International Driving Permit before your departure for South Africa. Drive on the left and give way to traffic approaching from the right.

 

Religions: Most denominations are represented. Churches, Mosques, Temples and Synagogues are located in most cities.

 

Wining and Dining: South Africa is acclaimed for its top quality fresh produce and culinary excellence. In most cities and towns, menus feature French, Italian, Japanese, Chinese, Greek, Mexican, Cape Malay and every other type of cuisine imaginable. The standard ranges from the unexceptional to the sublime and is also internationally renowned for its fine wines. Many estates have been producing world-class wines for years - and they're improving all the time. Most unlicensed restaurants invite patrons to bring their own wine. Restaurant guides are available from publicity associations in major cities.

 

VAT (Value Added Tax): Currently set at 14%, VAT is included in the marked/quoted price of most goods and services. Foreign visitors are not exempt from paying VAT on purchased goods. They may, however, claim back VAT paid on items taken out of the country when the total value exceeds R250.

 

Traveller's Cheques: Most international traveller's checks are accepted provided they are in an acceptable currency and may be cashed at most banks. Many hotels and shops also provide this service.

 

Customs Allowances: 400 cigarettes and 50 cigars and 250g tobacco; 1 litre spirits and 2 litres wine; 50ml perfume and 250ml eau de toilette. Gifts worth R1,250.